Does Car Insurance Cover Hail Damage? (2025 Guide)

That sickening sound a sudden, violent drumming of ice against your car’s roof and hood is something no vehicle owner wants to hear. A severe hailstorm can pass in minutes, but it can leave behind thousands of dollars in damage, turning your car’s smooth finish into a dimpled, pockmarked mess and potentially cracking windows and lights.

As you stand there assessing the damage, one urgent question floods your mind: Am I covered for this?

The short answer is a qualified yes. Car insurance absolutely can cover hail damage, but it is not automatic.² Your coverage depends entirely on which types of insurance you selected when you bought your policy. State-minimum liability insurance, for instance, will leave you paying for the entire repair bill yourself.

This guide will walk you through everything you must know in 2025 to navigate this stressful situation. We will identify the exact coverage you need, help you determine if filing a claim is a smart financial move, and provide a clear, step-by-step plan for filing your claim to ensure a smooth and successful process.

Yes, If You Have Comprehensive Coverage (Here’s How to Check)

This is the most critical piece of information you need to understand: Only Comprehensive Coverage pays for hail damage.

Let’s break down the common types of car insurance to see why this is the case.

Liability Coverage: This is the insurance that is legally required in nearly every state. It pays for damage you cause to other people’s property and their medical bills if you are at fault in an accident.⁴ It provides zero coverage for your own car’s repairs.
Collision Coverage: This pays to repair your car after it’s damaged in a collision with another vehicle or an object (like a fence, pole, or guardrail).⁵ Hail is not a collision.
Comprehensive Coverage (or “Other Than Collision”): This is the policy that protects you.⁷ Comprehensive coverage is an optional add-on that pays for damage to your car from a wide range of non-collision events.

Think of “Comprehensive” as your protection against chaos and “Acts of God.” It typically covers:

Weather Events: Hail, floods, windstorms, and tornadoes.
Falling Objects: A tree branch landing on your roof, or ice falling from an overpass.
Theft and Vandalism: If your car is stolen or intentionally damaged.
Fire: If your car catches fire (not from a collision).
Animal Collisions: Hitting a deer, raccoon, or other animal.

Because hail is a weather event and involves falling objects, it falls squarely under the protection of Comprehensive Coverage.¹² If you have this coverage, you are protected. If you only have liability, or liability and collision, you will unfortunately be paying for the repairs entirely out-of-pocket.

Why You Might (or Might Not) Have Comprehensive Coverage

Since comprehensive coverage is optional in every state, not everyone has it. Here’s how to know if you likely do:

You Have a Car Loan or Lease: If you are still paying off your car, your lender (the bank or financing company) almost certainly required you to purchase both collision and comprehensive coverage. The lender is the legal co-owner of the vehicle and requires you to maintain “full coverage” to protect their financial asset until the loan is paid in full.
You Have an Older, Paid-Off Car: This is the most common scenario where a driver might not have comprehensive coverage. As a car ages and its value drops, the cost of comprehensive coverage may eventually become more than the car is worth. Many owners of cars older than 10-15 years, or with a market value under $4,000-$5,000, will drop comprehensive and collision to save money on their premiums.
You Chose “Full Coverage”: If you told your agent you wanted “full coverage” when you bought your policy, this term almost always includes Liability, Collision, and Comprehensive.

How to Check Your Policy Right Now

Don’t guess. You need to know for sure. Here are the fastest ways to check:

Check Your “Declarations Page”: This is the one- or two-page summary at the very beginning of your insurance policy. It lists your name, your vehicles, your policy number, and a clear breakdown of the coverages you have for each vehicle. Look for the line item that says “Comprehensive” or “Other Than Collision.” Next to it, you will see your deductible (e.g., “$500” or “$1,000”). If you see that line, you are covered.
Log In to Your Insurance App or Website: The fastest method for most people. Your insurer’s app or online portal will have a “My Policy” or “View Coverages” section.¹⁴ It will clearly list what you are paying for.
Call Your Agent: A quick call to your insurance agent is the most foolproof way.¹⁵ Simply ask them, “I was just in a hailstorm. Can you confirm I have comprehensive coverage on my [Year/Make/Model] and what my deductible is?” They can tell you definitively in seconds.

Is Filing a Hail Damage Claim Worth It? (Deductible vs. Repair Cost)

Just because you can file a claim doesn’t always mean you should. The decision to file a claim is a simple, but crucial, financial calculation:

Is the cost of repair significantly higher than the cost of your deductible?

Understanding Your Deductible

Your deductible is the amount of money you have agreed to pay out-of-pocket for a repair before the insurance company pays a single dollar. Think of it as your “co-pay” for the claim.

The most common comprehensive deductibles are $500 or $1,000. You choose this amount when you buy your policy—a higher deductible means a lower monthly premium, while a lower deductible means a higher premium.

Here is the math:

Repair Cost: $3,500
Your Deductible: $500
Insurance Pays: $3,000
You Pay: $500

In this scenario, filing a claim is an obvious choice. You pay $500 to get $3,500 worth of repairs, saving you $3,000.

But what if the numbers are different?

Repair Cost: $1,200
Your Deductible: $1,000
Insurance Pays: $200
You Pay: $1,000

In this case, is filing a claim worth it? You’d be going through the entire claims process, having a claim on your record, all for a $200 payout. Most experts would advise you to not file this claim and simply pay the $1,200 out-of-pocket.

The True Cost of Hail Damage in 2025

Do not try to eyeball the damage and guess the cost. Hail damage is notoriously deceptive. A few small dings might look like a $400 problem, but modern repair techniques, while effective, are specialized.

The primary method for fixing hail damage is Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). This is a highly skilled process where technicians use specialized tools to get behind the car’s body panels and meticulously massage the dents out from the inside, preserving the factory paint.

The cost of PDR is calculated based on the number of dents and their size (dime, nickel, quarter) on each individual panel.

Here is a realistic breakdown of what hail damage repair costs in 2025:

Damage Severity	Description	Typical Repair Cost Estimate
Light	10-25 small, shallow dents, mostly on the hood, roof, and trunk.	$1,500 – $3,000
Moderate	50-100+ dents of varying sizes across all horizontal panels and possibly side panels.	$3,000 – $6,000
Severe	Hundreds of dents, including large, deep dents. Cracked glass (windshield, sunroof, taillights). Damaged trim.	$7,000 – $15,000+
Total Loss	The repair cost exceeds 70-80% of the car’s Actual Cash Value (ACV).	Vehicle is “totaled.”¹⁹

As you can see, even “light” hail damage almost always costs significantly more than a $500 or $1,000 deductible.

What if the Car is “Totaled”?

If your car is older, a severe hailstorm can easily result in a “total loss.” This doesn’t mean the car is undrivable; it just means the insurance company has determined that the cost to repair it properly is more than the car is worth.

Example:

Your 2014 sedan has an Actual Cash Value (ACV) of $9,000.
The hail repair estimate comes in at $7,500.
This repair cost is ~83% of the car’s value, so the insurer declares it a total loss.

At this point, you have two options:

Accept the Payout: The insurance company will pay you the car’s actual cash value, minus your deductible.²⁰ So, $9,000 – $1,000 deductible = $8,000 check. They then take possession of the car (and its “salvage title”) and sell it at auction. You use your $8,000 as a down payment on a new vehicle.
Keep the Car and the Payout: You can choose to keep your damaged car. The insurer will pay you the ACV, minus your deductible, and minus the car’s salvage value (what they would have gotten for it at auction, e.g., $1,500).
- $9,000 (ACV) – $1,000 (Deductible) – $1,500 (Salvage Value) = $6,500 check.
- You keep the $6,500 and you keep the car, which will now have a “salvage title.” You can choose to drive it with the hail damage or try to find a cheaper repair. (Note: A salvage title can make a car difficult to insure and almost impossible to resell).

The Verdict: Unless the damage is truly minor (just a few dings) and a repair shop gives you a written estimate that is near or below your deductible, it is almost always worth filing a hail damage claim.

Will My Insurance Rates Go Up After a Hail Claim?

This is the second-biggest fear for most drivers, and it’s a reasonable one. In many cases, filing a claim does cause your premiums to go up. But hail damage is different.

The short answer: A single hail damage claim is very unlikely to raise your personal insurance rates.

Here’s why: Insurance companies raise rates based on risk. When you cause an at-fault accident (like running a red light), you have proven yourself to be a higher-risk driver. Your rates go up accordingly.

A hail claim is considered a “no-fault” or “Act of God” claim.²³ You did nothing wrong. You are no riskier to insure today than you were the day before the storm. Insurers understand this, and most will not penalize you for a comprehensive claim that was completely out of your control.²⁴ Many states even have laws or regulations prohibiting insurers from surcharging a policyholder for a single, no-fault comprehensive claim.²⁵

The “But…” (The Indirect Increase)

While your individual risk profile hasn’t changed, the risk profile of your entire area has.

If your city or zip code (e.g., Denver, CO; Dallas, TX) experiences a massive hailstorm that results in tens of thousands of claims, the insurance companies are going to lose a lot of money in that region.

To recoup those losses and prepare for future storms (which are now proven to be a high risk in your area), they may apply for a general rate hike for everyone in that zip code.

So, your rates might go up by 4% at your next renewal, but so will your neighbor’s—even the neighbor whose car was safe in their garage. You are not being individually penalized for your claim; you are just part of a region that is now statistically more expensive to insure.

This general rate hike will happen whether you file a claim or not. Therefore, the fear of a rate hike should not stop you from filing a legitimate, expensive hail damage claim. You might as well get your car fixed you may end up paying the higher area rate anyway.

The Exception: The only time a hail claim might flag your personal file is if you have a high frequency of claims. If you’ve already filed two other claims (e.g., a collision and a vandalism claim) in the last three years, filing a third one even for hail might cause your insurer to see you as “claims-prone” and non-renew your policy. But for most people with a clean record, this is not a concern.

How to File Your Hail Damage Claim (Step-by-Step)

The storm has passed, and you’ve confirmed you have comprehensive coverage. The damage is clearly more than your deductible. It’s time to act. Follow these steps precisely for a fast and hassle-free claim.

Step 1: Document the Damage (Do This Immediately)

Your phone is your most important tool. Before you move the car or do anything else, document everything. You cannot take too many pictures.

Take Wide-Angle Photos: Take photos of all four sides of the car, plus the top (from a safe vantage point, if possible).²⁷ This establishes the overall condition.
Take Close-Up Photos of Dents: This is crucial. Get close-ups of the dents on every single panel: the hood, the roof, the trunk, the driver-side panels, the passenger-side panels.
Show Scale: Place a coin (like a quarter) or a small ruler next to the dents in some photos to give the adjuster a clear idea of their size.
Photograph Broken Parts: Get clear shots of any cracked or shattered glass (windshield, sunroof, mirrors) and broken plastic (headlights, taillights, trim).
Take a Video: A slow walk-around video of the car, narrating what you see, is excellent supporting evidence.
Note the Time and Location: Write down the exact date, time, and address where the damage occurred.³¹ Your insurer will use this to verify your location against weather reports.

Step 2: Contact Your Insurance Company to Start the Claim

Do not wait. The sooner you call, the sooner you get in the queue. After a major hailstorm, thousands of other people are calling their insurers, too.

Call the 1-800 Claims Number: This is the fastest way. You can also use your insurer’s mobile app, which often has a “File a Claim” wizard that lets you upload your photos immediately.
Have Your Policy Number Ready: This will speed up the process.
State the Facts Clearly: “I need to file a comprehensive claim for hail damage. My car was parked at [Address] on [Date] at [Time] when the storm hit.”
Answer Their Questions: They will confirm your coverage, tell you your deductible, and explain the next steps.
Get Your Claim Number: This is your magic number. Write it down and use it in all future communications.

Step 3: The Adjuster’s Inspection (Virtual or In-Person)

The insurer needs to verify the damage and write an initial repair estimate.³⁵ In 2025, this happens in one of two ways:

Virtual / Photo-Based Estimate: This is now the most common method for hail. The claims representative will send you a link to a special app. You will be guided to take specific photos and videos of the damage, which are then analyzed by a computer-assisted human adjuster who writes the estimate remotely.
“Drive-In” Claims Center: After a massive storm, insurers will often set up temporary “catastrophe centers” in large parking lots (like a stadium or mall). They will give you an appointment time to drive your car there, where dozens of adjusters are working in tents to inspect cars and write estimates on the spot.
Field Adjuster: For severe damage or complex cases, they may send an adjuster to your home or office to inspect the car in person.³⁶

The adjuster will inspect the car, count/measure the dents on each panel, and create an initial estimate for the repair.³⁷ They will then send you this estimate and the initial check, minus your deductible.

Important: This first estimate is often just a starting point. It’s very common for a repair shop to find more damage once they get the car under their special lights and start disassembling it (e.g., removing the headliner to access the roof dents).

Step 4: Choose a Reputable Repair Shop

This is one of the most important decisions you will make. You have two choices:

Use the Insurer’s “Preferred” Shop: Your insurance company will give you a list of “in-network” or “preferred” body shops.³⁸
- Pro: The process is seamless. The shop and the insurer have a direct relationship.³⁹ The shop bills the insurer directly, and the work is usually guaranteed by the insurance company.
- Con: These shops sometimes work for the insurer, not for you. They may be encouraged to use cheaper, non-OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts to save the insurer money.
Choose Your Own Independent Shop: You have the legal right to have your car repaired at any shop you choose.
- Pro: You can pick a shop that specializes in hail damage (PDR) or one that you know and trust to use only OEM parts and advocate for you.
- Con: The process has one extra step. You will have to coordinate between the shop and the insurer.

A Professional Tip: If you choose your own shop, pick one that has extensive experience with hail and insurance claims. When you go to them, you don’t just ask for a repair; you say, “I’ve filed claim #[Claim Number]. Can you work with my insurer to get this repaired?”

Step 5: The Repair Process and the “Supplement”

You bring your car and your initial estimate/check to the shop. The shop’s technician will then do their own thorough inspection.

This is when they will almost certainly find damage the initial adjuster missed. For example, the adjuster’s estimate might be for $4,500, but the shop finds $1,800 in additional, necessary repairs.

The shop will then file a “supplemental claim” with your insurer on your behalf. They will send their new, more detailed estimate and photos to the adjuster, documenting why the extra work is needed. The adjuster will review and approve the supplement.

This is a normal part of the process. You do not need to be involved. The shop and the insurer handle it.

Step 6: Pay Your Deductible and Get Your Car Back

Once the repairs are finished, you will go to the shop to pick up your car. Inspect it carefully to make sure you are happy with the work.

This is when you pay your portion. The total bill was $6,300 ($4,500 + $1,800 supplement).

The insurance company has paid the shop $5,800 (the total bill minus your deductible).
You pay your $500 deductible directly to the repair shop.

You sign the final paperwork, and you get your car back, looking as good as it did before the storm.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only. All insurance policies vary. Please consult your specific policy documents and speak directly with your insurance agent to understand your exact coverage, limits, and deductibles.